Being a combination of a high-temperature 'cooking' device with electronics exposed to heat, smoke, oils, and more, 'Not working' can be a quite a number of things. But DON'T PANIC (yet). The first part of fixing a problem is to evaluate, as closely as possible, what the symptoms are. Having some idea of that can guide us towards discovering the source of the failure and the most effective solution.

    We have developed the following test procedure that can be accomplished by most any home user. The results will be a big first step towards discovering whether the problem you are having is caused by a fault of the control panel, a failure of a single component (like the heating element, just as an example), or something else.

   This looks like a lot of information, but read through it first, then watch the attached one-minute video.


   MATERIALS NEEDED   

    You will need two strands of a thin, flexible wire. Copper is preferred. I used a short scrap of 10AWG insulated stranded copper wire (normally used for house wiring and such). Solid core wire will not work. A length of 5 or 6" is way more than enough. Strip the insulation off of about 3" of it and pulled two strands out for the following tests. If you do not have any handy, look for a house being built or go to an electricians shop. They would probably be glad to give you a scrap out of the refuse bin. If not, Look for a piece of any small gauge of electrical wire. Desperate? A very thin paper clip may work. 

    If you have a volt/ohm meter that might be handy, but not necessary to get started.


  THE PROCESS    

  • Begin by removing the the control panel from the side of the roaster. Go to our Repair Procedures webpage for some detail on how to accomplish that.
  • Disconnect the largest of the connectors from the back of the panel. It has a number of colored wires (the number of wires varies by model). Work carefully so as not to damage the panel's face nor the cable. Do not pull on the wires!

   

   THE TEST  

   PLUG THE ROASTER INTO A WALL OUTLET

   The Following test will use two thin copper wires as a jumper to test the function of the roaster. This test will verify that the roaster is operating properly.

  • With the two wires previously described at hand and the cable disconnected from the back of the control panel, plug the roaster into an outlet.
  • Take one strand of the copper wire and put one end of that strand into the opening of the cable's end connector for the black wire. For each test below you will leave that wire connected to the black wire and use the free end of that same wire as a "jumper" by pushing it into the other color wire in each described text below:
  • Black to Green = This will cause the Drum Motor to run. 
  • Black to Yellow = Bean cooling agitation arm motor will rotate the arm if the cooling tray is in place. Otherwise just look at the drive hub in the middle of the circular area where the tray usually sits and you will see the drive hub rotating.
  • Black to Orange = Bean ejection door solenoid will open. You should be able to easily hear that as it opens with authority.
  • Black to Red = Both fans will operate. Oddly enough, with the test wire only in the RED connector opening, if the wire is bare, touching it with your hand causes the fans to start. Do not be alarmed, it is very low voltage.
  • Black to Green AND Green to Blue (use two copper wires for this test) = This is the heating element test. The drum motor must be energized for the element to heat up. It is a safety feature. 
  •   CAUTION!   - ROASTER WILL GET HOT VERY QUICKLY!

   When you complete this test, contact us with the results and we will help you take the next steps.